Piedmont, Italy’s westernmost region with borders on Switzerland and France, is hemmed in by the Alps and the Apennines, which explain why its name means "foot of the mountain." Though it ranks only sixth among the regions in total production, Piedmont is considered a giant of Italian wine in every other way. It is admired above all for its red wines, led by the regal Barolo and Barbaresco. But the most popular of the region’s wines worldwide is the white, sweet, bubbly Asti.
Piedmont has the most DOC/DOCG zones with 52 and stands proud as the region with the largest percentage of its wines officially classified. It has no IGT. For craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitats, the Piedmontese have no rivals in Italy.
The climate is rigid by Italian standards, with distinct changes of season. Winters are cold with plenty of snow. Summers are for the most part hot and dry. Spring and fall are temperate to cool with fog normal at harvest time. A majority of the region’s vineyards are located in the Langhe and Monferrato hills, which are connected to the Apennines in the southeast. But several wines of significance are also grown along the foothills of the Alps to the north, between Lake Maggiore and Valle d’Aosta.
The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In the nearby Langhe hills, Barolo ("king of wines and wine of kings") is produced at the rate of about 6 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts rate its equal, rarely reaches 2.5 million bottles. Both come from Nebbiolo, which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improving for many years from fine vintages.
The traditional Barolo and Barbaresco were admired almost as cult wines, though often criticized as too elaborate for modern palates. But the combination of favorable vintages from 1996 on and perfection of techniques among winemakers, many of them young, seems to be changing the old-fashioned image. Barolo and Barbaresco have retained their ample dimensions while becoming better balanced and more approachable than before.
The Alba area is renowned for its smooth, supple Dolcetto under several appellations, and for first-rate Nebbiolo and white Arneis from Roero, where it is DOCG with the red. But the most dramatic progress in the Asti and Alba areas has come with the ubiquitous Barbera, which after ages of being considered rather common has rapidly taken on aristocratic airs.
Certain aged Barberas have emerged to stand comparison with fine Nebbiolo reds. Piedmontese drink more red wine
than white, and about half of the red is Barbera, which can also be attractive in youthfully fruity and bubbly versions. Three other red wines that have recovered after decades of decline are the crimson Grignolino, the often fizzy Freisa and the buoyantly sweet and bubbly Brachetto from Acqui.
In the other major area of Nebbiolo production, the hills to the north, modern styles are emerging in such reds as Carema, Lessona, Sizzano, Fara and the long vaunted Gattinara, which along with neighboring Ghemme has been granted DOCG.
Piedmont is a leading producer of sparkling wines. Foremost among them is Asti, the world’s most popular sweet bubbly wine. The market for this fragrant white is actually larger abroad than in Italy. In fact, worldwide demand is so great that a shortage of Moscato di Canelli grapes has developed. Piedmont is also a major producer of dry sparkling wines by both the classical and tank fermentation methods, though many of the Chardonnay and Pinot grapes used for them originate outside the region, mainly in neighboring Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy or in Trentino-Alto Adige.
Among still whites, Gavi, from the Cortese grape, shows a crisp yet elegant style that explains why admirers consider it one of the best with seafood and why it was recently promoted to DOCG. Smoothly fruity Arneis continues to gain ground in Roero, where the light, zesty Favorita is also emerging. The ancient variety of Erbaluce di Caluso makes both dry white wines, also sparkling, and the esteemed Passito Riserva that ages for five years.
Although Piedmontese growers were among the first to experiment with such foreign varieties as Cabernet and the
Pinots early in the19th century, those vines had largely faded from favor. Just recently, though, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Nero and, especially, Chardonnay have shown promise. The regional Piemonte DOC applies in part to sparkling wines from Chardonnay, Pinots and other varieties. Still, as admirers have noted, even wines from international varieties bear a stamp that is unmistakably Piedmontese.
