In the region of Marches, Verdicchio di Matelica, grown in limited quantities in a mountainous zone, can have more body and strength than the much better known Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Verdicchio from both DOC zones makes good sparkling wine as well, usually by the sealed tank method of fermentation, but also occasionally by the classical method in bottle.
The red wines of the Marches are based chiefly on Sangiovese and Montepulciano – sometimes blended, sometimes not. The most important in terms of volume is Rosso Piceno, dominated by Sangiovese. It comes from a DOC zone covering much of the eastern flank of the region, stretching from the superiore area between Ascoli Piceno and the sea north through the coastal hills to Senigallia.
Rosso Conero, dominated by Montepulciano, has gained even more praise, thanks to the devotion to quality shown by its leading producers. It originates in a zone on the slopes of the Conero massif south of Ancona. Both Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno were habitually made to drink within two to four years, when they are persuasively round and fresh in flavor. But certain producers have made wines that age remarkably well from good vintages – sometimes for well over a decade.
Two unique red wines are gradually gaining more than local reputations: Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, recently promoted to DOCG, and Lacrima di Morro d’Alba. Vernaccia from the village of Serrapetrona may be either dry or sweet but it is always sparkling. Lacrima, a local vine of mysterious origin, makes reds of flavors ranging from fruity dry to mellow sweet.
Sangiovese is prominent in the northern DOC zone of Colli Pesaresi, where wines bear a family resemblance to the reds of neighboring Romagna. Bianchello del Metauro is usually light and zesty but can show style from certain places.
Esino DOC, which coincides with parts of the two Verdicchio zones, provides red and white wines, usually fresh
and fruity. The white Falerio dei Colli Ascolani, from hills around Ascoli to the south, can show class when the Pecorino and Passerina varieties.
Although the emphasis remains strongly on native vines, recent results with such outside varieties as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon have shown eminent promise in the temperate hills of the Marches. The regionwide Marches IGT accounts for a major share of production.
