The island of Sardinia bears the marks of outsiders, from Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans to Genoese, Pisans and the Savoys who proclaimed the Kingdom of Sardinia. But Spaniards, who ruled for centuries before, lent the most pronounced accents to foods and wines. Still, the cooking of Sardinia remains as wonderfully eccentric as the nuraghe, the prehistoric stone towers whose origins are an enigma.
The sunny island in mid-Mediterranean boasts ideal natural conditions for things that grow, as attested by the fact that Sardinia is Italy's leading producer of organic produce, accounting for nearly a third of the nation's land cultivated by biological methods. Tomatoes are used generously in sauces, as are artichokes, fava beans, peas, eggplant and zucchini. Foods here are redolent of herbs, including wild fennel, juniper and myrtle, used with hare, boar and game birds.
Each Sardinian village bakes its own breads, variations on the large round loaves known as tondus, the doughnut shaped còzzula or stick-like zicchi, though names vary almost as much as do styles. Bakers everywhere share a liking for the flat pane carasau and its crisp variation called carta da musica (music paper). The island boasts a tempting range of sweet biscuits, fritters, pastries and cakes, which often contain almond, ricotta, raisins and elaborate spices.
Sardinians consume quantities of dried pasta, in the familiar forms of spaghetti and maccheroni, though they also make the singular ravioli-like culingiones and the gnocchi called is malloreddus, described as the region's most typical dish.
Sardinia, more than any other region, is a land of shepherds, whose Razza Sarda sheep account for the class of Pecorino Sardo and Fiore Sardo DOP cheeses, whether eaten fresh or aged for grating. Sardinia is also a major producer of Pecorino Romano DOP. Also notable are goat's milk cheeses, caciocavallo (or casizolu) and provolone.
Sardinia's 19 DOC wines are led by the dry white Vermentino di Gallura, which was recently elevated to DOCG. A lighter version of Vermentino figures among the four regionwide appellations, which also apply to the red Cannonau and Monica and sweet white Moscato. The most distinctively Sardinian of wines is Vernaccia di Oristano, aged in small barrels to take on tones reminiscent of Sherry. Malvasia also shows personality, as do the rare and sweet red Girò and white Nasco from near Cagliari. Lamb and kid are usually served with hearty dry Cannonau (which also makes a Port-like dessert wine), though a sturdy alternative is Carignano del Sulcis. Preferred with fish are the full-flavored Vermentino di Gallura, the bone dry Nuragus di Cagliari and the stylish Torbato under the Alghero DOC.
